The Falmouth Branch
|
The Map
The Falmouth Branch is marked
in black, while the mainline is in brown and closed railways
are in grey.
Open stations are in red and
closed ones in white. Tunnels are marked by dashes. Intact viaducts
are marked in black and abolished ones in grey.
Main roads are marked in red.
Minor roads are omitted as unimportant.
Water is blue; land is green.
Map approximately to scale
but you may rather buy OS Landranger 204 instead of trying to
use this one. |
Both major schemes to get
a railway to Falmouth envisaged the line as the end of a major
through route from London, so it is somewhat ironic that in fact
the line has never been of serious importance and is now a rural
branch off a secondary mainline. Perhaps more ironic is that
had all gone according to the original plan this page would have
a slightly different yellow background and green text and borders.
It begins with a short tale of two railway companies - the fabled
Great Western Railway, with its splendid non-standard track gauge
(it laid its rails 7ft¼inch apart because the engineer,
Isambard Kingdom Brunel, thought that things would work better
that way), and the more notorious London and South Western Railway,
with its squabbling shareholders, untidy plans and general tendency
towards delay in all parts of the organisation.
Falmouth, a town towards the
south-western end of Cornwall, began the 19th century as a major
packet port, with its deepwater river estuary and sheltering
promontries making it the ideal place to bring a ship into shore,
either for repairs, restocking or to unload goods which could
be better transported overland. When the London and Southampton
Railway opened in 1840, this traffic shifted up the coast to
Southampton and threatened Falmouth with bankruptcy.
The London and Southampton,
swiftly renamed as the London and South Western when it decided
to expand its horizons a bit, spent its life in a bitter feud
with the Great Western Railway which finally ended in 1966 when
the managers of the former GWR were passed control of the former
LSWR lines in Devon and Cornwall and promptly slaughtered the
network. Until then, anyone who wanted to get either railway
to do anything could simply mention that the other was planning
to do it instead; the response would be instantaneous and the
exact plans of the other rarely checked before thousands of pounds
were outlayed on arranging to head them off. Both railways were
keen to get a big mainline into the open countryside west of
Exeter and stake their claim to all of Devon and Cornwall - the
GWR preferring coastal routes and the LSWR preferring to go in
fairly straight lines over the moors.
In 1844 Falmouth made protesting
noises to the LSWR about how the LSWR's prospering London to
Southampton mainline was ruining Falmouth. The LSWR responded
with the kind offer of supporting a mainline from London to Falmouth.
The Cornwall and Devon Central Railway would run west from Exeter
through Okehampton, Launceston, Bodmin and Truro to the port
town. Falmouth was enthusiastic and the financial response to
this railway was adequate to allow it to purchase the nearby
Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway from under the noses of the GWR's
local company. However, at the time there was a regulatory body
to decide which railways should be allowed to be built and which
ones were spoilers of no benefit; in 1844 work actually began
on the GWR-backed South Devon Railway, which was to run west
from Exeter to Plymouth, so the LSWR's route was deemed to be
a duplicate (though it was accepted as probably being the superior
route) and it was duly blocked. Ensuing attempts to revive the
scheme ultimately ended up with the LSWR owning a mainline to
Plymouth and a rural branchline to Padstow, on the north coast
of Cornwall; neither survives today.
This left the LSWR with an
obsolete railway between Bodmin and Wadebridge, unconnected to
the rest of their network, and the GWR with a clear road to the
Far West, nicely linked up with their broad gauge. The South
Devon's arrival in Plymouth was somewhat delayed by Brunel's
bright ideas about ways to abolish railway locomotives, but once
the bright ideas had all been settled and trains were running
into the GWR's Plymouth station it was decided to extend the
network west from Plymouth into Cornwall. The Cornwall Railway,
part-funded by all the companies which would be working trains
from London to Plymouth, was approved by Parliament in 1846.
It would build a broad gauge mainline from Plymouth to Falmouth.
Work began at Truro in 1847 and progressed with due speed for
all of about six weeks until the company noticed that its railway
was going to be expensive and suspended work between Truro and
Falmouth.
With the LSWR out of the picture
- it eventually reached Cornwall, but never got to Truro - there
was space for another railway to cause trouble and so one obligingly
did. The West Cornwall Railway was opened from the western outskirts
of Truro to Penzance in 1852, laid with a single track to the
national standard gauge of 4ft8½inch and so using
trains which would be incompatible with those from London. However,
it promised to upgrade to broad gauge if asked nicely. After
a bit it noticed that its Truro terminus - located where Penwithers
Junction is now - was rather rubbish and it extended round a
headland to a terminus at Newham, in Truro Docks, just to the
south of where Tesco Truro is now. In May 1859 the Cornwall Railway
opened to Truro after completing its bridge across the Tamar
at Plymouth and the two railways arranged to link up in a new
Truro station. The West Cornwall added an extra rail to its track
so that London trains could run through to Penzance and everyone
was happy - particularly the good folk of Penzance, who had secured
a couple of daily through trains to and from London.
Work then finally began on
the Falmouth branch and this was completed to single track broad
gauge with passing loops in 1863, although the tunnels and bridges
were built for double track. Loops and stations were provided
at Perran (later Perranwell) and Penryn and the terminus was
at Falmouth Docks. The rather fine route took in eight viaducts,
several impressive cuttings and two tunnels. The general style
of the route was that of the main Cornwall Railway (it was designed
and built by the same people, except that Brunel died in 1859
of overwork and never saw the line completed), so the viaducts
consisted of stone piers with timber struts holding up timber
girders. Tunnels were faced with local stonework and stations
were mostly small, although Falmouth was given long platforms
and an overall roof to befit its status as the western end of
the Great Western network. It also had a docks branch, engine
shed and various sidings.
1892 saw the abolition of
Brunel's broad gauge and one May weekend converted everything
in the area to standard gauge - somewhat aided by the fact that
all that had to be done on the West Cornwall was lift the third
rail added in the 1850s. The branch remained roughly the same
until a modernisation programme in the 1920s began some upgrades,
including a new station at Penmere, a realigned station at Penryn
and a few slight tweaks to the route. Four of the timber viaducts
were replaced with stone ones, while the other four were replaced
with embankments. Curiously, two of the new viaducts were built
for double track.
Another forty years passed,
during which time the line was popular with tourists but lost
importance as a through route (so far as a single-track branch
line can ever qualify as a through route). In the 1960s a cost-cutting
programme of line closures and cutbacks, based around a report
written by one Dr Beeching, axed all goods facilities on the
route (apart from Falmouth Docks) and saw trains reduced to diesel
multiple units of various lengths, although the route is not
one of those listed in the dreaded Appendix 2 as being down for
closure. A new station at Falmouth Town perhaps helped keep up
traffic levels. Through trains to London ceased in 1979. It was
proposed for closure in all the options in the 1983 Serpell Report,
but Serpell's headline option proposed closing pretty much everything
apart from a few mainlines radiating from London and so the whole
report was firmly stamped upon. (The other six unlucky routes
which Serpell was going to kill whatever were St Erth to St Ives
(which had only just dodged Beeching anyway), Yeovil to Dorchester,
the Weston-Super-Mare avoiding line, Sudbury to Marks Tey, Newcastle
to Carlisle and Georgemas Junction to Thurso (another narrow
escape from Beeching). It's an interestingly motley band of railways
to be seen dead with.)
Instead of meeting their Maker
as proposed, the seven passenger lines on the closure list finally
got some kind of realisation that they were going to be around
for the long haul; all seven remain open today and are mostly
doing quite well. For the Falmouth branch, any surviving station
buildings were demolished and the western end of the mainline
from London was worked as a siding under a "staff"
system - there were no signals along the line (except for those
protecting the junction) and a staff kept at Truro was given
to drivers to permit them to work their trains along the line
in the knowledge that there was only one staff so they wouldn't
meet anything along the way.
This system remained in use
until 2009, when a new loop was brought into use at Penryn and
service levels increased to provide the line with half-hourly
trains under conventional colour light signals. Perranwell, the
most intact of the three original stations, was demoted to a
halt. The resultant service is a little liable to fall over when
things go wrong, since Penryn is not halfway along the line and
trains have half an hour to do the 30 minute round trip from
Penryn to Truro and back, leaving little time to cater for disruption,
late traincrew or passengers who wish to get on at Perranwell.
On the plus side, closure seems to be comfortably far away at
the moment - not only has a broke train operator has been persuaded
to improve the service, but during the infamous stock shortages
at the end of 2006 the Falmouth Branch was the only Cornish branch
not to be turned over to buses. (The stock shortage was entirely
self-inflicted - First Great Western sent a quarter of their
West Country trains off-lease, in accordance with their franchise
deal, and found that they couldn't find stock for a quarter of
their West Country services). However, through trains - even
to Plymouth - look sadly unlikely to be resurrected in the near
future.
On a more positive note, the
tattered remains of the LSWR network around Exeter are on the
up at the moment and various bits of line re-openings are a possibility.
Through trains from Penzance through Truro to London Waterloo
ran for a few years - over GWR metals as far as Exeter - but
these ceased in 2009 after service upgrades between Exeter and
Waterloo left the operator with no spare trains.
Truro
|
Truro station is not quite
in original condition, since the original station was rather
small and had an overall roof. A rebuilt station opened just
before the turn of the 20th century with four platforms, two
footbridges, long platforms with big awnings and a fine brick
station building - plus waiting rooms, offices, etc.. Two signalboxes,
large goods yards and an engine shed completed the station, which
was to serve the city which had just regained its title of Capital
of Cornwall (from Bodmin, which had been built in the wrong place
and so had to make do with a couple of rather puny branch lines
which were too puny to survive Beeching). To add to the general
railway importance of the place, it was the Great Western locomotive
City of Truro which in 1904 became the country's first
steam locomotive to (allegedly) break the 100mph barrier as it
descended to Taunton station with a mail train. Unfortunately
Taunton station is nowhere near Truro or, indeed, in Cornwall
at all (it is actually 150 miles up the line in Somerset) but
you can't have everything.
This view looks from the footbridge
at the east east end of the station. Platform 2 is to the left
(with an unusual visitor in the form of a Spitfire Railtours
train to Penzance), Platform 3 is below us and Platform 4 is
out of view to the right behind the awning. Behind the camera
is Truro level crossing, a former bank of sidings (now replaced
by a housing estate called "The Sidings") and Truro
East signal box. After the abolition of West box in 1971 the
box is simply known as "Truro" or "T". How
Truro laid its grubby paws on one of the 24 single-letter signalling
codes for the Western Region is unclear (yes, 24 - there being
few places on the railway beginning with "x" or "z"). |
|
Looking back from the west
end of Truro station, we can now see Platform 1, the Falmouth
branch bay, to the far right. Platforms 2 and 3 run down the
centre, while the abandoned platform 4 is off to the left. The
footbridge carries a public footpath over the station. Puddles
form under the canopy over Platforms 1 and 2, emphasising that
Cornwall's stations are not in the best condition that they could
be - although at least they are still here (in the 1980s it was
possible that they wouldn't be). The station used to be a junction
for Newquay as well, until that link to the North Cornwall resort
(via Chacewater and Perranporth) was closed in the 1960s. This
loss was probably one of the reasons for the demise of the fourth
platform, which remains largely intact (although most of it has
now been fenced off) but will probably not return since there
is no particular use for it. The blue containers off to the left
sit at the west end of the station car park which, like all good
station car parks, is built on the main goods yard.
Despite the loss of much of
its infrastructure and the intrusion of TV display screens and
modern ticket barriers, Truro still retains a certain steam-age
feel. The main building is still intact (indeed, part of it has
been extended) and in railway use. The waiting room on Platform
3 may no longer be warmed by a wood fire but is still open and
welcoming. Standard Great Western lower-quadrant semaphore signals
remain in use around the station and show no signs of tottering
off this mortal coil - particularly as when Network Rail had
to install a new signal at the west end of platform 3 in Easter
2009 they drew up a whole new industry standard for the design
and installation of lower-quadrant semaphore signals - a form
of technology for which the word "obsolete" is perhaps
too kind. However, it does rather explain the company's £30,000,000,000
debts. |
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For fans of signal T26,
it is seen here sitting off to the right, with three rather older
examples of the lower-quadrant semaphore dotted around for comparison.
The signal is carefully designed to both reflect historic Great
Western signalling design and comply with modern safety regulations
for staff climbing up it to clean the lenses and check the lamp.
Perhaps a modern colour light would have been just as in keeping.
As can be seen from the signal
in the middle, which has just signalled away an express to Penzance
(calling at Redruth, Cambourne, St Erth and Penzance - unlike
the stoppers, which call at Redruth, Cambourne, Hayle, St Erth
and Penzance), lower quadrant semaphores are so called because
the arm drops to show that the line is clear. On this occasion
it isn't any more, but Truro signal box never rushes to return
its signals to danger. Note the rather nice little finials on
the tops of the signal posts, which Network Rail has even replicated
on the top of T26.
The signal to the left controls
departures from the Falmouth bay, while the tall one in the distance
controls trains leaving the sidings. Truro still has a couple
of sidings, which are used for stabling track maintenance equipment
and spare (or defective) branch trains. They used to be used
for freight traffic too, until it disappeared in the mid-1990s,
although the occasional freight train has run since. The warehouse
behind this array of obsolete signalling equipment is built on
the site of the former engine shed, which once played host to
various locomotives for mainline and branch work. Branch trains
are now officially allocated to Exeter St Davids depot, but sleep
overnight at Penzance Long Rock or Plymouth Laira depots.
Incidentally, for really obsolete
signalling equipment you want to go a few stops up the mainline
to Liskeard, where London-bound trains are signalled by a rather
well-used semaphore arm made of timber which would appear to
have been installed some time before 1900. (It is in fact fairly
recent; a conventional metal arm was fitted in the 1950s so why
someone installed the current assembly - and where they got it
from - is unclear.) |
Newham branch, Truro
|
Newham station was the second
to open in the Truro area and replaced Truro Road station when
services from here began in 1855. It was approached down a long,
steep gradient from the original station and formed the terminus
of the West Cornwall Railway. It was conveniently sited for Truro's
docks and so the small station, with its overall roof and basic
facilities, was also equipped with various sidings and a couple
of warehouses which were used for general goods to Truro and
the various bits of traffic which would be going further afield
by water. The creek leading up to Truro is tidal - the picture
shows it in winter at low water; it is quite attractive in summer
at high water - so coastal vessels could make their way into
here.
The Cornwall Railway station
opened in 1859 and almost all traffic was diverted to the newer,
higher station on the other side of the city. Some goods workings
continued to run from here and the first train of the day to
Penzance began its journey under the overall roof of Newham until
1863 (with a balancing working from Penzance at the end of the
day), which was probably merely a "Parliamentary" service
intended to comply with statutory expectations for rail services
without bothering to close the route.
After the loss of passenger
trains, the station settled down to spend the next 108 years
in a life of drudgery with what might count as its original finery
steadily disappearing as the decades passed. The long approach
line ran attractively around the hillside from Penwithers Junction,
where it joined the Cornish mainline, with views out over bits
of the estuary and some rather fine rocky cuttings. Upgrades
to the A39 to Falmouth continued to take it into account and
road vehicles entering or leaving Truro by this route still pass
under a steel girder bridge which looks too modern to be disused.
However, what little traffic remained ceased in 1971 and the
line and its station closed that November.
Most of the railway is now
a cyclepath, with the exception of the extremities - the approach
to Penwithers Junction is technically not a right of way and
the final approach to Newham station has been redeveloped. A
road runs through the middle of the site, giving access to the
beginning of the cycleway and bits of the old dock area, while
flats and offices have been built on the sidings. The old stone
warehouse in the centre and the worn dock walls are the only
links to the past. The picture was taken from a footpath around
Tesco Truro, which sadly arrived too late to have its deliveries
made by rail. The loss of Newham was merely a pointer of how
railfreight in Cornwall is going - the only freight train which
ever uses any part of the West Cornwall network now is the fuel
train to Penzance. |
Penwithers Junction

|
Truro Road station was located
round the back of Truro, well outside the city at that time (and
not exactly in the centre now). The probably rather unimpressive
affair opened in 1852 and was Truro's first railway station,
with a few trains a day from Penzance courtesy of the West Cornwall
Railway. It closed in 1855 and services were diverted to Newham.
When the Cornwall Railway
arrived in 1859 at Truro station the West Cornwall proceeded
to plunge through the hill on the modern alignment to access
the new station and allow through trains from London. Truro Road
consequently became a place of some note again, but it was now
the junction where the West Cornwall line into the main Truro
station branched off the West Cornwall line down to Newham. This
little junction between two single track railways obtained the
name of Penwithers Junction.
The Falmouth Branch made it
a three line junction; a curve was later built to allow trains
to run between the two Truro stations, although it's not entirely
clear that that was ever used. Although complicated to describe,
there was a very nice viewing point from the A390 over Highertown
Tunnel looking down on the junction which allowed lots of helpful
pictures to be taken of the activity at this far west intercity
junction, which is 301 miles from London Paddington (via Bristol
Temple Meads).
The plan shows the layout
at its peak. The black and blue lines survive, although Truro
to Penzance is now the mainline and the straight-ahead line to
Falmouth is the branch. The East Cord (as it is labelled here;
it probably didn't have a name in reality) provides the link
between the two stations. Half is now a very small nature reserve
and the other half is overgrown. The red West Cornwall mainline
was lifted in 1971; it is now a public footpath from Newham to
the junction with the east cord, while from there to the main
junction it is an occasionally used well-worn dead-end footpath.
For some reason it spent most of its career connected to the
Falmouth branch by the yellow chord. In the middle is a small
field landlocked by railway lines.
The cutbacks to the railway
infrastructure been balanced by a reduction in cutbacks to vegetation
and Penwithers Junction is now hidden from the A390 by large
bramble bushes. There are now two ways to get a decent photograph
of the much-reduced junction. One is to stand on the West Cornwall's
Newham line. The other is to hang out of the door window of an
express from Penzance and wave the camera around hopefully.
While we await an opportunity
to record the junction by the latter method you will have to
make do with a picture taken from next to the boundary fence
at the end of the West Cornwall's Newham line. The lower, nearer
rail running straight across the picture the the Falmouth branch.
The slightly higher one vanishing behind a shoulder of ballast
is the "canted" track of the West Cornwall line to
Penzance. |
Perranwell

|
Perranwell station has always
been the first one on the line. It opened under the name of Perran,
but it was soon concluded that this was too easily confused with
Penryn and the name was lengthed. The ease of this confusion
is easily shown by the number of people who nowadays muddle Penryn
station with Penmere.
The curved station had up
and down platforms, with a goods yard to the left of Falmouth-bound
(down) trains; the upper picture is looking towards Falmouth
and the lower one towards Truro. It was about half a mile to
the nearest centre of population (the village of Perranwell itself)
so a habitation grew up around the actual station. Known as "Perranwell
Station", in a most original manner, this cluster of houses
has grown over the years and now the area within a half-mile
radius of the station goes under this name (although it is also
part of the Parish of Perranarworthal). It would have been most
unfortunate had the station been closed in the Beeching cuts,
but happily it survived - albeit with a fairly minimal building,
no loop and the goods yard sold for other uses.
The up platform has long since
lost all its buildings and what used to be a small ornamental
pine tree in the station gardens is now a fully-matured pine
tree surrounded by brambles. The down platform presented an increasingly
decaying air for many years, although giving it a new shelter
(nicely painted in green and white) in the early 1990s helped
to improve its appearance. Clearance of vegetation from the old
up platform at Penryn as part of the installation of a new crossing
loop there acted as a reminder to someone that it was probably
time to do the same at Perranwell. However, the station's rural
nature counted against it and its position as the least-used
station on the route (by a margin of about 60,000 users per year)
meant that it was unable to put up a substantial defence to the
decision to downgrade it to a request stop which only half the
trains would consider stopping at. Thus branch trains leaving
their starting point at about 20 minutes past the hour can be
invited to call there and those leaving at about 50 minutes past
the hour don't.
Perranwell, however, retains
more of its original features than any almost other station in
Cornwall. The large metal sign in the upper picture, although
clearly not entirely original, is still one of only two on the
old Cornwall Railway to survive (its sibling, on a similarly
lightly-used station, is on the mainline at Lostwitheil). The
goods shed is pretty much the only surviving such structure on
the entire Cornwall Railway; although now in industrial use,
most external features survive intact (including some sliding
doors on the platform side of the building). Unlike all other
Cornwall Railway stations it has also been spared modernisation
projects over the years; the platform edging slabs towards the
Truro end look suspiciously original and the platforms are far
enough apart for two broad gauge tracks to run between them.
The signal box was once positioned
between the goods shed and the down platform, where a tree can
be seen growing in the lower picture. Unusually, it was held
up on girders so that a siding could pass beneath. Another notable
deployment of this method of providing a signal box without using
up ground space was at Clapham Junction, which is somewhere towards
the other end of the station importance scale.
Leaving the station for Falmouth,
trains accelerate along an embankment above the road to Perranwell
proper and pass a house which gets a train horn blown at it twice
an hour as services announce their approach to a minor foot crossing.
The line then proceeds south over Perran Viaduct and through
Perran Tunnel towards Ponsanooth and Penryn. |
Ponsanooth and Pascoe Viaducts

|
The modernisation of
the Falmouth Branch in the 1920s perhaps had the most impact
around Ponsanooth. The sizeable village, located just to the
west of the railway between Perranwell and Penryn, was denied
a station when the line initially opened and has never been in
line for one since - surprisingly, since the GWR and its successor,
the Western Region of British Rail, took great delight in building
halts in such notable locations as Elms Bridge (local population
of about 20), Hadnock (local population of about 8) and Trouble
House (no local population worth speaking of; built purely to
serve the pub of the same name).
The original line from Perranwell
emerged from Perran Tunnel and ran around the hillside to cross
Ponsanooth Viaduct, with fine views of the village. It then ran
through a slight crossing and headed over Pascoe Viaduct, which
carried the line over a deep valley with a small stream at the
bottom. Then it ran around the outside of the hill, under an
occupation bridge and over a smaller embankment past the little
village of Burnthouse (not to be confused with the larger village
of Mabe Burnthouse, two miles to the south on the same road).
When viaduct replacement came
up it was decided to carry out some extremely substantial infrastructure
works of the sort that railway companies traditionally never
bothered with once they'd got their line constructed and opened.
Pascoe Viaduct was completely replaced with a new embankment
a few yards to the west, the spoil for which was obtained by
digging a new and very deep cutting, slicing through the hillside
between there and Burnthouse. This cutting required a new occupation
bridge, which came in the form of a single brick arch thrusting
across the cutting. It is obviously a later addition, since the
blue brick construction is completely different to the local
stone style of the Cornwall Railway constructions.
The old Pascoe Viaduct is
now marked by two high embankments, one on each side of the valley,
to the left of descending trains, with a suspicious gap between
them. The original small cutting and associated occupation bridge
survive today and are still counted as being on railway property
(the bridge has even been allocated a location code - it is on
the "FAL" line and is 307 miles and 35¾ chains
from London Paddington via Bristol). The lower picture shows
a train from Truro descending over the new embankment, with the
old viaduct in the trees to the right, as seen from the brick
occupation bridge.
The upper pictures show the
viaducts at Ponsanooth. The new structure is only six arches
long but truly has to be seen to be believed. The left-hand picture
gives some idea of its scale with a lorry trailer parked at the
bottom. The right-hand picture is from a local road, linking
the A393 and the A39, which passes under its south end. From
above it appears to be a double-track viaduct - it appears from
below that the GWR built themselves a new single-track viaduct
but retained the option of doubling it by slinging out the side
walls on concrete supports. The later viaduct replacements -
at Carnon and Collegewood - are unashamably single line. Note
the rather fine tapering of the old supports for the original
timber viaduct. |
Penryn
 
|
Penryn station was always
the more important of the two intermediate stations on the line.
Originally trains approached in a steep cutting set sharply into
a hillside, which brought them out over a valley on a fine timber
viaduct. Crossing a local road, they ran into a gently curving
station - to the left of the upper picture, with its building
adjacent to Station Road and where the entrance to the station
car park is today - before swinging into another steeply falling
cutting and running under another road, to emerge on Collegewood
Viaduct, with fine views down the valley over Penryn.
During the 1920s modernisation
it was decided to lop out the curves and build a larger station
with more sidings. The first cutting was widened so that trains
didn't dig so deeply into the hillside; the viaduct was replaced
by a large embankment and a new, straighter station was laid
out on the alignment used today. The second cutting survived
with the track through it being realigned and eventually fed
onto the replacement viaduct at Collegewood. The original station
building - now divorced from the platforms by a dozen yards or
so - remained in use, surrounded by a busy goods yard.
It didn't last forever and
the 1960s cutbacks tore deeply into Penryn station. The original
station building, goods shed and signal box all went; sidings
disappeared and the loop was removed to leave half of the Falmouth-bound
platform in use. Basic buildings became the order of the day,
culminating in a bus shelter being provided in the 1980s. Tatty
old diesel units were replaced with new Pacers which turned out
to be incapable of getting around corners, due to their cheap
construction precluding the provision of wheelsets which swiveled
for curves. They had been partly intended for the five branch
lines west of Plymouth, but were soon bundled off and replaced
with the tatty old diesel units. The first of these to wheeze
into Gunnislake after the departure of the Pacers was reported
to have been greeted by cheers - hardly surprising, since the
Plymouth to Gunnislake branch features curves which look too
sharp for Pacers to get around.
The failure of the Pacers
seems to have prompted a realisation that the Cornish branchlines
could not simply be given what the Western Region could afford
out of the petty cash and some investment began to come their
way again. Although the Sprinters which replaced the tatty old
units in 1991 were hardly up-market, they were newer, cleaner,
more reliable and got around bends. Perranwell, Penryn and Penmere
all got nice new buildings built with bricks and mortar. The
line was also threatened with a growth in importance when the
University of Exeter took over Cambourne School of Mines and,
in association with University College Falmouth, began to develop
a new campus at Pig Farm (known in Cornish as Tremough) about
quarter of a mile away. Eventually service improvements were
proposed.
The loop at Penryn was built
with local authority, European Community and Network Rail money,
allowing trains to pass here once more. Unfortunately modern
footbridges have to be fitted with lifts, roofs and fencing which
is solid enough to ensure that 70mph caterpillar-tracked mobility
scooters with gun turrets and nuclear warhead protection shields
don't fall off the footbridge, so providing one was too expensive
and the ready-made second platform remains out of use (a foot
crossing would also have been an option, but people have shown
a nasty tendency to step out in front of departing or passing
trains over the years so foot crossings are now discouraged).
Instead the platform was lengthened, with Platform 2 (above,
looking south) taking trains to Truro and Platform 1 (middle,
looking north) taking trains to Falmouth. Falmouth trains use
the loop line to pass Truro ones on the right. Part of the original
second platform has been restored for occasional use, as can
be seen in the upper picture. This bit of nicely-restored platform
with high-intensity lighting is available for the driver to alight
onto should he wish to phone the signaller because the signal
guarding the end of the loop is at red.
Services are now provided
by single-car Class 153 Super Sprinter units, as seen in the
upper picture. Once upon a time these were two-car Class 155
units, until they were chopped in half on the basis that they
were more useful that way. The two-car fleet was always regarded
as underpowered and the single-car examples are even more so,
given that one engine has to move around a full coach with two
cabs and a toilet without the help of a tailing car to push it
through a 75mph headwind. A vaguely interesting result of the
conversion is that the units have non-matching cabs - the cab
of the Truro bound unit in the middle was bodged in during the
rebuild, while the cab of the unit to the right is original.
The bottom picture shows the
station as it was prior to the completion of its overhaul and
the introduction of the new service, with an ex-Silverlink Trains
Class 150/1 (the most basic variety of Sprinter) leaving for
Falmouth. The old station had more gardens and fewer lights than
the refurbished one. Readers of the Wye Valley Railway section
of this website may recognise the Sprinter from Llandogo.
Another view of Penryn station - again before rebuilding, but
in the snow and with two Class 153s pretending to be a 155 -
can be seen in our February 2009 Seasonal
Area page. |
Collegewood Viaduct
|
Collegewood Viaduct is the
last viaduct on the Falmouth Branch. Having descended sharply
out of Penryn station in a deep cutting, trains suddenly emerge
onto its high stone arches and sail over a valley with fine views
down on the Fal Estuary and the harbour at Penryn. Once over
the viaduct, a high embankment carries the line around the hillside
before it cuts through a ridge of land to run out into a large
valley, home of a small stream, around the back of Falmouth.
Like all viaducts on the line,
Collegewood Viaduct initially consisted of stone piers supporting
timber fans, which in turn supported the timber floor of the
viaduct. This design of viaduct was a cost-cutting measure devised
by Brunel for his railways west of Exeter, which came with the
general idea that at some point they would be replaced by a more
permanent viaduct which was less susceptible to rot.
Most of these viaducts had
therefore been rebuilt with extended piers and steel girders
or replaced outright with stone structures by 1900, but the Falmouth
Branch had been downgraded by then and so the money to replace
its collection of eight timber viaducts was not forthcoming.
Instead, this project had to wait until the 1920s modernisation,
which saw four of the viaducts completely abolished and replaced
with embankments.
The other four were progressively
dealt with over a seven-year period. Perran's new four-arch stone
viaduct came in 1927; Ponsanooth was replaced in 1930 and Carnon
went in 1933. Collegewood held the status of Last of Brunel's
Timber Viaducts for about a year before the new stone and concrete
structure was opened in 1934 as the storm clouds gathered once
more over Europe for the run-up to the Second World War. (Strictly
speaking Llanelli in South Wales is still reached over a Brunelian
timber viaduct, but this was the last of the ones built on stone
piers.)
The old viaduct had survived
for some 71 years; the new viaduct was finally able to claim
that it had been in use for longer when it passed its own 71st
birthday in 2005. The old piers remain largely intact; with only
a few exceptions, most of the piers for the replaced timber viaducts
on the Falmouth Branch still stand today in remarkably good condition. |
Penmere Platform
 
|
The fourth station to open
on the branch, Penmere Platform was one of the 1920s improvements.
It is located on a road called Penmere Hill, which was the centre
of some considerable development in the inter-war period and
so was deemed to justify the expenditure involved in building
a single platform with a couple of waiting huts and appropriate
signage and lighting. The resultant station opened on the first
day of June 1925. The pictures show it in high summer from the
access path, on the same day looking north at the old overbridge
at the top end of the site and in late autumn from the platform,
in all three cases looking towards Truro.
A "platform" has
two definitions in the GWR dictionary. Option 1 is where passengers
stand or sit while waiting for their train. Option 2 is a staffed
request stop (unstaffed request stops being called "halts"
in line with the terminology used by the three other big railway
companies of the time). "Platforms" generate enough
business to justify staff and a nice waiting room but not enough
to bother promising to always stop the train at them. This is
odd, since Penmere Platform is on the inside of a curve on a
steep down grade towards Falmouth and descending trains will
have had to slow fairly considerably anyway if they were to pick
up any possible waiting passengers. Perhaps the idea was to avoid
forcing all ascending trains to stop when there was a possibility
that there would be nobody waiting (in 1925 much of the surrounding
land was still fields). Perhaps it was on the basis that if the
GWR built a full station here they would feel obliged to provide
decent buildings and goods facilities.
Penmere was located between
two bridges - a derelict overbridge at the north end of the site
and a well-used underbridge at the south end. This gave it a
pleasantly enclosed and personal air. Its importance grew when
the War Department decided to open an oil depot at the south
end of the site in 1940, with a large area being built up on
the south side of the lower overbridge (to the right of Falmouth
trains) to take four sidings. These were surrounded by a (still
intact) pallisade fence and linked to by a spur off a loop line.
This gave the overbridge at the north end of the station the
accolade of being the only overbridge on the entire branch to
span two tracks and seems to have required the underbridge at
the south end to be widened, since the main running line is laid
on a standard Cornwall Railway arch but the loop was laid on
a girder.
After the oil depot was officially
closed in 1967 the bulldozer moved in and Penmere entered a state
of decline. The attractive signage, lighting and gardens with
the nicely-painted station huts vanished to be replaced by a
prefabricated cardboard box designed like the toilet block in
the back yard of a terraced town house (and which no doubt smelt
a bit like one too). The 1990s upgrade removed this structure
and replaced it with the current brick affair, beginning a remarkable
transformation. Taken in hand by the Friends of Penmere Station,
the stop de facto regained the name of Penmere Platform
(although all trains are booked to stop here now and there are
always passengers) and the gardens began to reappear. GWR station
signage was provided and soon it was winning awards. The large
running-in board seen in the pictures at the south end of the
station was joined by a similar one at the north end.
The only downside came in
November 2009, when during a week-long track possession over
the line Network Rail (among other sundry jobs) removed the overbridge
at the north end of the station. Its loss was rapidly noticed,
making the local press, and it has somewhat
changed the character of the station. However, it is unlikely
(given how easy it was to find access routes to it) that the
bridge had been seriously used during the lifespan of the station
anyway.
The southern, surviving overbridge
can be seen late at night in our November
2009 Seasonal Area page. |
Falmouth Town
|
Perranporth Beach Halt opened
in 1937. It was a basic concrete kit platform on the Chacewater
to Newquay line and gave slightly less than thirty years moderately
good service before the winding branch line on which it was located
closed in 1963.
The halt platform was still
in fairly good nick, however, and was quite easy to dismantle.
Apparently British Rail therefore decided to recycle it and the
platform was taken apart and moved to Falmouth in 1970. It was
duly opened as a nice new station which was rather closer to
the town centre than Falmouth Docks and so was expected to do
rather better business. Substantial cost savings and the potential
to drastically improve journey times were also expected as a
result of the decision to close the Docks station at the same
time.
Unfortunately the new Falmouth
station is built on a steep gradient and some very nice rules
say that, due to the fact that trains without people in their
cabs sat on steep hills with parking brakes on are rather likely
to run away (more likely than the same train with a driver in
the cab and the parking brake off, apparently), it is illegal
for drivers to change ends on steep gradients. Therefore trains,
having deposited their passengers at the new Falmouth station,
had to run down to the bottom of the hill to the old one anyway
so the driver could change ends.
Since the Falmouth branch
is a long way from London and officialdom, it is probably quite
likely that the train was also carrying passengers down to the
old station as well. The fact that officialdom is a long way
away was nicely shown by the fact that it took five years for
anyone to notice that the rails at the old Falmouth station looked
suspiciously well used and that consequently nothing was being
gained by abandoning the station. Reopening took place on the
5th of May 1975 and the new Falmouth station became Falmouth
Dell. In 1988 it became Falmouth Town, in line with the old Great
Western idea that if there were multiple minor stations in a
town the closest to the town centre should be known as the "Town"
station (major stations were Generals). Over twenty years on,
this situation seems to have settled in nicely. The original
cab of 153305 is seen leading the 13:23 arrival from Falmouth
Docks (ultimately aiming for Truro, though with '305 you never
know if it'll get there) on 19th December 2009. |
Falmouth Docks

|
Falmouth Docks station is
slightly intriguing in that trains pointing towards the bufferstops
are pointing towards London, while trains pointing away from
the bufferstops are indicating somewhere more in the direction
of Florida, USA. However, trying to take a short cut to London
would merely result in the Class 153 having a rather bumpy ride
of a few hundred yards before toppling over a cliff into the
Fal estuary, so it is probably well advised to stick to tradition
and depart south-west.
Once upon a time Falmouth
station had three long platforms, plenty of goods facilities
and a fine overall roof with views over a reasonably large port,
while Penzance station had one short platform, squashed goods
facilities and a rather small overall roof overlooking an unimpressive
quay. Slowly the relative positions of the two places swapped
and so, while Falmouth still leads with the port (Penzance's
quay has now become a marina with occasional ferries from the
Scilly Isles), Penzance now has an impressive overall roof, four
long platforms and all the goods facilities which one can expect
of a station post-Beeching (i.e. none) and Falmouth has one short
platform with no overall roof and no sidings worth speaking of.
Both places used to have engine
sheds as well. Falmouth's is now marked by an expanse of overgrown
land to the right of arriving trains (or behind the train in
the lower picture), which enter at 15mph. Penzance's Long Rock
depot is still important enough to have a shunter and tends to
have on shed each night two IC125s, two Sprinters and two Voyagers.
The Night Riveria Sleeper spends the day there and a fortnightly
oil train visits to drop off fuel. Trains pass at something more
in the order of 50mph.
Falmouth's rail service is
half hourly, while Penzance's is closer to hourly, but Falmouth
no longer has through trains to London. It has some sidings and
a docks connection, (on the right of the lower picture) but they
clearly haven't been used in many years. The few loco-hauled
trains which visit - mostly for track maintenance - have a loco
at each end, eliminating the need to run around. Penzance, since
it is served by sleeper trains, still has locomotive servicing
facilities and sees frequent railtours. Overall, it seems that
the West Cornwall Railway has won.
The unusual arched awning
is not original. The original station only featured its overall
roof. That section of the station was where the block of flats
(Maritime Studios - student accommodation) now stands. The surviving
platform used to be the arrivals platform; at some point it was
granted this extension to its roof. Around 1960 the overall roof
came out, to be replaced by some rather 1960s shelters around
the bay into which the two platform tracks and centre stabling
road ran (with the second, shorter platform running up to the
end of the stone wall in the upper picture). The area over which
the roof had once stood was completely removed in the late 1960s,
leaving a derelict area and a truncated station. Even after reopening
in 1975, the station spent many years pretending to be dead.
By the late 1980s it looked like it had been borrowed from a
1940s scene of one of those North Welsh narrow-gauge lines which
officialdom thought had closed in the First World War but were
actually clinging on by not very much at all. The 1990s saw some
tidying; subsequent redevelopment around the surviving fragment
has helped it look better than it has done for a long time, with
a handsome mural on one wall.
The milepost records that
we are 312½ miles from London Paddington via Bristol Temple
Meads. It has not been possible to do all 312½ miles on
one train for many years, but a couple of daily trains from Penzance
run to London via Bristol (most use the Berks and Hants route
between Taunton and Reading) allowing passengers to cover the
entire Great Western route and the many changes of scenery without
a single change of train. |
The branch is currently
worked, with varying degrees of comfort, success and reliability,
by three small fleets of trains (none of them larger than 20
units). They are all operated by First Great Western and nowadays
all carry a First Great Western livery of some form or another.
Some Arriva Trains Wales 150/2s also used to drop by occasionally;
after the 150/1s began arriving en masse these went home
again. |
 |
First's stock shortages after
the December 2006 timetable change initially merely looked like
they would get First the sack, but after a while they began to
look like they might get some ministers the sack as well and
additional stock was drafted in. The end of the Silverlink franchise
in October 2007 brought two Class 150/1 Sprinters to the West
Country, which was new territory for the then 23-year-old units
and attracted some interest. In autumn 2010 the remainder of
the North London fleet was displaced by new Class 172 units and
they also found themselves in the South West - sounding good,
but looking awful inside and out. More 150/1s will arrive eventually
from London Midland. It is rumoured that in due course they will
become the standard fleet for the Falmouth Branch. In December
2010 No. 150127 became the first of the batch to receive the
Purple; it looks rather plain, but is currently nice and glossy;
in any event, the early Sprinter units never were noted for their
design features and it comes with a round of internal refreshment. |
|
The Class 150/2 Sprinter features
various developments on the 150/1 - most notably a door in the
cab end so crews and passengers can pass between sets when they
are working in multiple. The bulk of First Great Western's Sprinter
fleet consists of these utilitarian go-anywhere 75mph units,
which are moderately reliable - if rather basic and often filthy.
At the time this picture was taken (early 2009) they made a habit
of occasionally cropping up on Falmouth branch trains, particularly
at weekends, with their large double-doors and big picture windows.
After the service improvements they became a regular sight whenever
a 153 was giving grief; in Autumn 2010 they became a regular
sight on the second of the two weekday diagrams. They also seem
to have been bought a washing plant for Christmas and look much
healthier.
The swirly livery carried
by the 150/2 and 153 fleets is made up of all-over vinyls. Water
gets behind these and causes serious rusting, so they are now
being discouraged in favour of basic paint-based liveries. |
|
For many years the workhorse
of the branch, the Class 153 SuperSprinter is now being displaced
to other workings by two-car Sprinter units due to rising traffic
levels. Like all members of the Sprinter family, they are also
much bigger on the inside than they are on the outside. Unlike
Sprinters, SuperSprinters have "single leaf" doors
at each end of the coach, providing a more pleasant passenger
compartment - particularly when the units are heading downhill
with a following wind (about the only time that a 153 can coast).
This has the downside that loading and unloading in peak periods
is a long and slow process. Here we see the original of the non-matching
cabs; the doors at this end provide access to the area for disabled
passengers and pushchairs, while the newer, smaller cab with
the much smaller vestible at the other end provides access to
the end with the luggage rack, bike space and toilet. |
The future of the line is
quite optimistic, with growing ridership and the stations now
working at capacity (try getting out of one of them - other than
Perranwell - during the evening peak and you'll understand how
important a good station entrance is). Suggestions have been
made about a new stop at Ponsanooth, which is a sizeable village
and very close to the railway but has never had a railway station.
However, since trains barely have time to stop at Perranwell
now, a new station between Penryn and Truro would not get a very
good service (perhaps two-hourly each way, alternating with Perranwell
so that it would be quicker to walk between the two than catch
the train). Some very considerable investment could arrange a
workable service to Ponsanooth and give Perranwell its station
status back, but this would either take the form of massive speed
limit increases (tricky, since the schedule is much the same
as in the 1960s so that option was probably exhausted long ago),
moving the loop to Ponsanooth (which would be possible, particularly
since the adjacent viaduct is double track, but a trifle expensive)
or doubling the line between Penryn and Ponsanooth (an option
for which most of the structures are ready, but which would still
prove slightly tricky and massively expensive).
The line also used to see
a lot of freight traffic a long time ago. Wagonload trains have
gone and will not return as long as the A39 exists; larger loads
went as Falmouth Docks was reduced to a ship repair base. The
connection remains but is largely unused. Three or four maintenance
trains work the line each year; otherwise Sprinters and Super
Sprinters hold sway.
The current timetable leaves
little room for freight traffic anyway and the line has had its
modernisation money for this generation. With the railways looking
likely to face substantial cutbacks don't expect to see any further
development until the late 2030s (by which point the Super Sprinters
will be 50, having been on their last legs for about 20 years).
However, the prosperous route looks likely to be safe from any
new murmurings about the expense of rural railways with four
big viaducts in 12 miles.
Maybe one day someone will
notice that revenue would go up substantially if Penmere and
Penryn regained their ticket offices. Schoolchildren and students
can commute on busy peak services with a good chance of not being
charged (this author has a season ticket unfortunately) and being
able to buy a ticket before boarding would remedy this. Penryn
could also offer students the sort of travel advice which the
Internet does not always make available to the degree that students
notice (like "your railcard has expired" - the sort
of thing that those unfamiliar with rail only find out at the
beginning of the holiday when they're on the crowded train to
Truro with a tight change for the London express. Happily on
that occasion the London express was cancelled, so that student
had plenty of time to get another). A decent ticket office tends
to come with some kind of waiting room too (although not always)
and that would also be good for business.
|
Background picture: Pink flowers and green ferns predominate
on Falmouth Branch cuttings these days since someone was good
enough to chop down the trees which used to envelope the line,
rather spoiling its scenic qualities (except perhaps when you
were on a viaduct). Nowadays the south portal of Sparnock Tunnel,
seen here with a single Class 153 heading for Truro in June 2010,
is about as attractive as double track tunnel portals ever get.
The fact that only a single line has ever run through it is highlighted
by the width of the approach cutting. The tunnel is rather noisy
inside; its fellow tunnel at Perran is somewhat quieter. |
For more information and
"past" pictures, try reading Branch lines to Falmouth, Helston and St. Ives
(Vic Mitchell and Keith Smith, Middleton Press, 2001) or An
Illustrated History of the Cornish Main Line (John Vaughan,
Oxford Publishing Company, 2009). Video 125 visited the line
in 1991 to record part of their Cornish Branches Driver's
Eye View, which is jolly interesting - if rather well cut down
and a tad historic. Since 1991 most of the stations have received
new buildings, Penryn has gained a second platform, the sign
at Perranwell has been moved and the Class 101 which operated
the service has been scrapped. The tale of the London and South
Western Railway's endeavours is drawn from The London and
South Western Railway - Volume 1: The Formative Years (R.
A. Williams, David and Charles, 1968).
<<<Railways
Department<<<
25/12/10 |